Saturday, September 7, 2019

Trip Overview Part 11 - Day 14 - Tokyo & Yokohama

My biggest fear about my Japan trip was the one factor that I had no control over - the weather.  I had been quite fortunate for the first two weeks of the trip but my luck appeared to be running out when I woke up on Friday, June 7th.  The forecast for the Kanto region called for rain for that day.  What's worse is that the weekend's forecast wasn't looking a whole better.  I had tickets for Yokohama this evening and Yakult for Saturday afternoon.  I also had plans to see a Fighters farm team game in Kamagaya on Sunday but at least I didn't already have a ticket yet.

There wasn't anything I could do but keep on keeping on so I went ahead with the plans I had for that Friday.  My first item on the agenda that morning was the Japanese Baseball Hall Of Fame over at the Tokyo Dome.  I got over there about a half hour before it opened so I had a little time to walk around near by.

Korakuen Stadium used to stand on the site adjacent to the Tokyo Dome but as far as I can tell there's no marker or memorial for it.  The only thing even close to a remnant of the old park is the Cenotaph that was erected outside it in 1981 that listed the baseball players killed during the war.  This now stands near the Dome - it's at street level between the Dome and the amusement park just north of it:


I had a couple minutes to walk into The Ballpark Store next door to the Hall Of Fame.  This store stocks hats and other apparel for all 12 NPB teams.  I bought a Dragons hat here during my 2013 trip but I didn't get anything this time around.  I was looking to see what they stocked in the way of baseball cards but I didn't see any.


At 10 I headed into the Hall Of Fame.  Admission was just 600 yen.


This was my second ever visit to the Hall - I had been there on my previous trip back in 2013.  I was severely jet-lagged on my last visit so I didn't think I got as much out of it as I could have.  I was much more rested this time but I still managed to spend less than an hour in the museum.

Once you pay your admission you have to go downstairs to get to the museum itself.  At the foot of the stairs is a display commemorating the 2019 Hall Of Fame inductees:


The first room you enter after you come down the stairs and turn left contains "lockers' for each of the 12 NPB teams.  Each "locker" contains a player's uniform and other team paraphernalia:



The second room is dedicated to professional baseball.  It looked like the major exhibits were unchanged from my previous visit so I didn't pay a lot of attention to them.  Instead I looked at some of the smaller items that I had not noticed before - like this poster showing the history of the NPB teams name changes and mergers:


There was also this poster for the 1981 Nippon Series between the Giants and the Fighters.  At the time the two teams shared Korakuen Stadium so the entire Series was played in one ballpark.


The next room was for the "History Of Baseball".  This featured a display of baseball cards:


I think this is the 1949 "Dreaming Of Baseball" Karuta set (JK 1).  This is the same set I saw here in 2013 but now they are also displaying the reading cards as well as the picture cards.

There were also displays here for Japanese players in MLB as well as MLB tours of Japan.  Here's a display they had up for Ichiro:


Another item I noticed here was an autographed base that Rickey Henderson had given Yutaka Fukumoto when he broke Fukumoto's record for most steals (1065):


The next section was for amateur baseball.  There was a display of the jerseys that I think are from the most recent summer Koshien Tournament (at least the Osaka Toin jersey anyway):


I still get a kick out of the Cal Ripken World Series display.  I was at the championship game in 2016 that's celebrated in the frame in the center of the photo.  That was the last year the Series was played in Aberdeen, Maryland, not far from my home.


Just after the amateur baseball materials is displays for Women's Baseball.  There's a case dedicated to the Japan Women's Baseball League (JWBL):


There were also a couple displays for the Women's Samurai Japan team that has dominated the last couple Women's Baseball World Cups:



There were also displays here for the men's National Teams both amateur and professional including displays for the 2006 and 2009 World Baseball Classic champions:



The next room is the Hall Of Fame itself.  The main thing in this room are the plaques on the walls for all the Hall Of Famers:



This room also featured a couple of other items.  There was a display commemorating when Shohei Ohtani hit the roof of the Tokyo Dome a few years back:


There was a display of materials from Shigeo Nagashima's People's Honor Award ceremony in 2013:


My visit was about a month into the Reiwa Era so the Hall had a couple displays dedicated to the end of the Heisei Era and the beginning of the new one.  For their final game of the Heisei Era on April 29th the Orix Buffaloes wore throwback BlueWave jerseys.  Every jersey had Akira Ohgi's number on it as April 29th would have been Ohgi's 84th birthday.  (Ohgi had managed the BlueWave from 1994 to 2001 and was the "merged" Orix Buffaloes' first manager in 2005.  He passed away in late 2005.)  The Hall had a display showing one of the uniforms:


Additionally there was display of baseball's from the final games of the Heisei Era:


And also from the first games of the Reiwa Era:


There was a special exhibit going on dealing with uniforms.  I took a bunch of photos but I'm not entirely sure what was going on.  It's pretty obvious who some of the jersey's in the photos that follow belonged to.










The Hall Of Fame doesn't really have a gift shop but there are a handful of items for sale near the front door.  Mostly what they have are little knick-knacks but they also have a bunch of postcards of the Hall Of Fame plaques.  I think they've added this since my first visit here.  Each postcards is 100 yen.  I'm not sure how many different Hall Of Famers have postcards as it's certainly not all of them.  I kind of got carried away here and ended up buying 20 postcards in all, picking up ones for Koji Akiyama, Yutaka Fukumoto, Atsuya Furuta, Isao Harimoto, Senichi Hoshino, Kazuhisa Inao, Tsutomu Itoh, Tomoaki Kanemoto, Sachio Kinugasa, Kimiyasu Kudoh, Shigeo Nagashima, Futoshi Nakanishi, Katsuya Nomura, Hiromitsu Ochiai, Sadaharu Oh, Akira Ohgi, Shigeru Sugishita, Tsutomu Wakamatsu and Hisashi Yamada.  If you've counted you'll see that's only 19 - I bought two of the Sugishita postcard and sent one to Zippy Zappy when I got home.  Here's the Hoshino, Nomura and Ochiai postcards:




It had started to rain while I was in the Hall Of Fame but I was able to stay under cover after I exited the museum and walked along the concourse outside the Toyko Dome.  Two of the gates for the Dome are named for Nagashima and Oh (despite the fact that neither of them ever played there).  The gates are each marked by a large mural of the namesake player:



I'd seen these murals on my first trip to Japan but I must not have noticed just how ugly the Nagashima one looks.  I know that the image of him losing his helmet is famous but his face looks ridiculously contorted.

The Giants have a team shop right by the Nagashima gate that I took a quick look in.  Again I didn't find any baseball cards.


I checked out the sports book store Oaks in the "Yellow Building" just south of the Dome.  This store occupies the same location as Yamashita, a sports book store that was here from the late 40's until early 2013.  Deanna Rubin had told me a while back that everyone still refers to the store as Yamashita.  The store did stock the latest packs of baseball cards as well as the Calbee team books.  I was looking for the program from the most recent Sumo tournament for a friend of mine but they didn't have it.


It was closing in on noon now and I had plans to meet up with Dan at Wrappers in Jimbocho.  I got down there first but ran into issues finding the store.  Dan showed up a few minutes later and guided me to the store (I'll go into the issue more when I do my post about the store).  After an hour or so at the shop I headed back up the Tokyo Dome (only one stop away on the Mita line) to grab a bite to eat with John E. Gibson of the Japan Baseball Weekly podcast.  John was at the Dome to try to get an interview with someone for that week's podcast - he was able to catch up with Brandon Laird of the Marines who were playing the Giants that evening.  It was great to get a chance to catch up with him.  He dubbed my trip the "Monsters Of NPB Tour" which I'm going to tag all my overview posts with.

It was still raining when I left the Dome and was not showing any signs of heading up.  I checked online and discovered that the Swallows game that evening had been postponed but the Baystars game I had tickets for was still on.  I caught up with Dan at the Akihabara Station and we headed south to Yokohama.  Dan was going to go with me to Mint Yokohama even though he wasn't going to the game.

It's about an hour long trip from Tokyo to Yokohama and Dan and I got off at Yokohama Station in the middle of the evening rush hour.  It was a bit of a mad house getting through the crowd and making our way to the card shop.  I had pretty much finished up at the store when I checked my phone again, fully expecting to see that the Baystars game was postponed.  To my surprise, it wasn't and I realized that it was 1700 and the game was scheduled for 1800 - I needed to get moving.  I said my goodbyes to Dan and headed back to Yokohama Station.  Luckily Yokohama Stadium is only a short train ride from the Station so it wasn't long before I was at the ballpark.

I had really been looking forward to going to the game in Yokohama.  I had really enjoyed the park when I was there in 2013 and I was interested in seeing how the renovations the team was doing to the park were going - some of these renovations were preparations to the park hosting the Olympic baseball games next year.  I had also learned some interesting things about the site itself.  The park that the ballpark sits in was the site of a baseball game in 1896 in which "a team from Tokyo's Ichikō high school convincingly defeated a team of resident foreigners from the Yokohama Country & Athletic Club".  I believe this was the first time a Japanese team had defeated a team of foreigners and it greatly contributed to the popularity of baseball in Japan.  There was a ballpark built in the park on the site of the current park that hosted a game of the MLB tour on November 18th, 1934 (which the All Americans won 21-4).  This park also was the site of the first night game in NPB in August 17th, 1948 between the Giants and the Dragons.  The old park was in bad shape by the 1970's and was torn down in 1977 to make way for the new park.

There are plaques for Babe Ruth and Lou Gehrig at the foul poles of the ballpark (Ruth's is at the left field pole while Gehrig is at the right field pole) to commemorate the old park being used in 1934.  I was hoping to be able to see these as well.

So I had been looking forward to going to the ballpark.  But by the time I actually got there I was in a bad mood.  First of all I was tired.  I had had late nights the two previous nights and was anticipating another one this evening.  Secondly I was wet and cold by the time I got to the park.  My bad mood made things that wouldn't have normally bothered me - like the fact that I had to walk all the way around the ballpark to get to where I could enter the park - seem to be major irritations.   It had been raining since 1000 that morning  and I was in disbelief that the Baystars had not called the game, especially once I got to my seat and saw that the tarp was still on the field.


Still I had pretty good seats and the Baystars were playing the Lions so I was trying to make the best of it.  Plus my favorite Baystars pitcher - Shota Imanaga - was starting that night.  The start of the game was delayed a little bit so I walked around a little under the stands.  I was hoping to get something to eat but there were long lines at all the food vendors and my bad mood was making me impatient and not inclined to give the Baystars any money.  I was also unable to figure out how to get over to the foul poles - there was a divider in the stands that prevented me from just walking over from my seats.

I will give the team credit - by the time the game started the rain had stopped and I don't think it rained anymore during the rest of the game.  The Lions scored a couple runs in the top of the fourth and the Baystars responded with two of their own in the bottom of the inning.  But Shuta Tonosaki hit a solo home run in the fifth to put the Lions up for good in the fifth and they scored three more runs in the seventh and eighth innings to win the game 6-2.  Imanaga struck out 12 in seven innings of work but also walked five.  He gave up five runs on seven hits.  Lions starter Kona Takahashi held the Baystars to just two runs on three hits (and two walks) in seven innings.  But I was long gone by the time the game ended.

I hated leaving the game early but again - I was tired, cold and wet.  And for the first time I actually had to deal with rude Japanese fans.  They weren't being rude to me specifically (at least I don't think so) but the fans on the other side of the aisle were my seat was were constantly standing up and screwing around.  And not in a fans cheering way either.  I wouldn't have cared but every time they stood up they blocked my view of the batter.  If I hadn't been in a such a bad mood I probably wouldn't have cared so much but I wasn't having it that evening.  So I left after five innings.

I still hadn't eaten dinner so by the time I had taken the train back up to Tokyo I was starving.  I finally stopped for dinner at a Sukiya restaurant a couple blocks from my hotel.  Sukiya is a chain of gyudon restaurants - I had eaten at one in Odawara with Ryan a week earlier.  By the time the game was over I was sitting in the warm, dry restaurant, eating my three cheese gyudon and nursing a large beer.


Again I hated leaving the game early but I loved getting back to my hotel room probably two hours earlier than I would have otherwise.  This left me well rested for the last two days of my trip.

4 comments:

Fuji said...

Thank you for that awesome tour of the Japanese Baseball Hall of Fame. So many cool pieces of memorabilia. Love that Rickey signed base. I hadn't heard of Yutaka Fukumoto until today.

Sean said...

Great post, that beer at the end looks like it was well appreciated after a day like that!

Reading your post makes me wish they had more of a "baseball neighborhood" in Tokyo near the Hall of Fame/ Tokyo Dome. Seeing you being unable to find any cards in any stores around it just feels wrong.

I visited Cooperstown a couple of times back in the 90s and what I remember way more than the Hall itself was the neighborhood around it full of card and memerobelia shops, it was just a nice baseball neighborhood where fans could stroll around and shop til they dropped. Tokyo's seems kind of bleh to me, which is odd since usually neighborhoods in Tokyo are way better shopping meccas than their US counterparts.

NPB Card Guy said...

The MLB Hall of Fame is off the beaten path so Cooperstown itself is a tourist destination dedicated to baseball. I doubt anyone makes a trip to Tokyo just to see the Japanese Hall Of Fame so it's not real surprising that there's as many shops that have sprung up around it. Plus I suspect that the rents at Tokyo Dome City are much higher than say Jinbocho or Ikebukuro.

That said the fact that the Hall doesn't have a real gift shop is kind of ridiculous.

Sean said...

True, I suppose a better critique would be why did they insist on putting the Hall of Fame in the Tokyo Dome instead of in a neighborhood where it would fit in with neighboring shops, etc.

I mean, I know the reason why they didn't, but it would have been nicer that way I think. Also having the HOF located in the stadium on one team...and especially THAT team.....creates an obvious sense of bias which the Hall absolutely should not have.